Sweet/Bitter/Raw

We all know the creation of a perfume is all about recalling memories and creating emotions by the power invested in us by the endless world of scents. That realm is now witnessing the rise of gourmet fragrances that we once were not so familiar with. And one front-runner is chocolate.

In the simplest sense, gourmet fragrances are edible notes being turned into “tasty” and “lasting” scents—also relaxing, intimate, and playful. Without further ado, here’s this issue’s star: the scent that owns winter as its olfactory season, just to own all seasons along the way—chocolate. The logic behind it is simple: chocolate, with its sweet and comforting smell, is simply irresistible. From its American origins to modern-day popularity, it has become a symbol of indulgence. And it found its way into the perfumery scene with all of its deliciousness.

Speaking of origins, it’s commonly known that Mayans used chocolate for religious celebrations and ritual ceremonies. So much so that they even had a goddess for chocolate named Ixcacao. Meanwhile, the Aztecs took chocolate as a gift of the gods and also used it as currency. They had a god for chocolate named Quetzalcoatl. Alongside its ritualistic purposes, chocolate was also used as a remedy. Mayans believed that chocolate cured fever, fatigue, and many more discomforts.

Chocolate’s journey continued to the New World. Even in a different culture, chocolate was prescribed for ailments such as indigestion or heart palpitations in 16th and 17th-century Europe. The more popular it became, the more areas it was used in. The first known olfactive use of chocolate was by French perfumer Jean-François Houbigant in the 18th century. Named “Chocolate Essence,” the perfume was made from cocoa seeds and herbal ingredients.

The 19th century saw the rising popularity of chocolate in perfumes. Some of the most famous fragrances of the era were “Jicky” and “Shalimar” by Guerlain, and “Nuit de Noel” by Caron. However, it wasn’t until the 1990s that chocolate became a star in the gourmet perfume scene. One of the first popular scents of the 90s was the 1992 release “Angel” by Thierry Mugler. “Angel” was a collection of sweet gourmet notes like caramel, chocolate, and vanilla and became an instant icon. The same era gave us the emo/punk princess scent from Lolita Lempicka, named “Lolita Lempicka,” with dark chocolate, licorice, black cherry, iris, and violet notes.

Chocolate as a scent highlights how far olfactive creations have come, both scientifically and artistically. The science of smell is a fascinating field that involves understanding the chemistry of scents and the body. It’s a magical area of expertise that we get to experience daily. No surprise, then, that perfumers constantly seek unique scents and note combinations to create the most intricate and intriguing products.

It all starts with the fragrance pyramid. According to this, fragrances are divided into three groups: top notes, middle (heart) notes, and base notes. Uniquely, chocolate can be placed in each group, although it is most commonly used as a middle or base note. As a middle note, it pairs with vanilla, caramel, or coffee to create a relaxing, intimate scent. As a base note, musk or woody scents accompany chocolate to create a more complex and sophisticated end result.

This brings us to some familiar perfumes. A Lancôme bestseller, “La Nuit Trésor,” combines vanilla and patchouli with chocolate to create a rich scent performance. “Viva La Juicy Noir” by Juicy Couture uses flirty chocolate notes alongside fruits and florals. The process of mixing, layering, balancing, testing, and refining leads to new olfactory creations. A great example is 2022’s “Nectar & Ambrosia Délicieuse” by Ori Russo. Perfumer Nina Lamaison presents chocolate as a top note alongside mandarin, orange, and grapefruit.

To understand the charm of chocolate as an olfactory factor, we must understand the science of smell. It’s no rocket science—when matter emits an odor, it reaches the olfactory receptors in the nose. These receptors send signals to the brain, which decodes them as scents, triggering the limbic system—the center of emotions, memories, and motivations. If we view scents as a registry system, it’s clear they influence our mood and behavior. And what better scent than chocolate to uplift the mood?

Enter Missoni. Maurice Roucel and Trudi Loren have been uplifting moods with this perfume since 2006, with a chocolate base, citrus top, and intense floral middle notes.

Now, let’s turn to chocolate’s future, sustainability, and its place in niche perfumery. Sustainability has become a core principle in the fragrance industry. Though chocolate’s role in sustainability is mostly linked to edible consumer markets, perfumery must also contribute. Educating consumers about sustainability allows perfumeries to innovate further, and independent brands to expand their experimentation.

With this butterfly effect, we can keep smelling amazing ideas like “Chocolate Greedy” by Montale, “Choco Violette” by Mancera, or “Black Phantom” by Kilian—with its coffee and intense caramel notes.